Thursday, October 13, 2011

Developing Your Own Healthy Hair Regimen

The one thing I can say about being Natural is that it gives you the freedom to, well, be free and try a multitude of styles and products.  It's quite hard to find an entire regimen that works well for every single person, I'm not going to say impossible, but what works for me may not work for you.  We all have different hair types, textures, densities, hair preferences, etc...that's the beauty of natural hair.  Our hair allows us to try a little of this and a little of that, and this process, this journey, is what helps us learn our hair.  Of course, it's great to have other people to look to for guidance, valuable information, and advice, but ultimately it's YOUR hair...do what you want to do ;)


What I wanted to share are some of the things I have learned about creating a regimen, and how to customize it to fit your hair needs.  There are several main components of any hair regimen, with these you can cultivate a healthy, vibrant head of hair.  The basic blueprint of a hair regimen include:

CLEANSE
CONDITION
STYLE

That's it really.  The concept is easy...you can choose to make it as complicated or simple as you wish.  The principles are quite basic: CLEANSE clean hair and scalp enables your follicles to stay clear and for your hair to grow uninhibited CONDITION imparts moisture and nourishment into your hair in preparation for styling STYLE well this is up to you ;)  With these key principles you can start or enhance your journey towards healthy hair.

Want to delve into customizing this for your hair?  Let's break them down and give some samples of what you can add to make your hair happy.

CLEANSE - you have many more options with shampoos today, especially for Naturals.  When I first started my healthy hair journey a couple years ago, I chose to go the "no-poo" route.  This is  forgoing traditional shampoo in the sense, and opting for using conditioner to essentially "wash" your hair.  This usually only works well when you are avoiding certain ingredients that are either too heavy or cause buildup (like petroleum, silicones, or mineral oil)  I used primarily natural butters and oil during this time and I never had an issue with getting my hair clean, dry scalp or dandruff (I "thought" I had dandruff when I was relaxed...it turns out I just needed to change my lifestyle because once I went natural I've never had the issue again!)  On the occasion where I did feel like clarifying my scalp (every 4-5 weeks or so) I would add a bit of baking soda to my conditioner (a couple teaspoons maybe) and this worked to effectively remove build up and leave my scalp sparkling but my hair soft and not stripped.  Now I'm experimenting with some wonderful new products that are natural and clean my hair without drying it out.  I've even tried a shampoo bar for the first time :)  You can also look into using African black soap or castille soap as more natural alternatives.

CONDITION - This is probably the most important part, in my opinion, since you can actually choose to go no-poo.  Conditioning the hair is essential as a Natural because, as I'm sure many of you know, our hair tends to be dry.  Very dry for most of us.  Utilizing conditioners in your regimen helps to boost moisture content, add strength and elasticity, and smooth the cuticle of the hair in preparation for styling.  I'm gonna be real with y'all...I love conditioners.  LOVE conditioners...this is my vice.  I probably have 15...20...25 okay, lemme stop!  I have quite a few conditioners in my stash, not to say I use them all, but I've used most of them. I've got some with fantastic ingredients, I've got a few with questionable ingredients, I've got some cheapies, I've got some protein enriched...I've got it all.  I like to classify conditioners under several categories: traditional (rinse-out), deep conditioners, detangling, and leave-ins (not in the traditional leave-in sense, but those that can be rinsed partially and distributed for wash-n-gos) A good traditional conditioner can double as a deep conditioner, a detangler or a leave-in.  I like a thicker conditioner, one with moisturizing properties, and one that at least allows me to finger detangle with ease.  The difference, for me, between a traditional conditioner and a DC is that I wouldn't try to do too much detangling with a DC.  You can make your traditional conditioner act as a DC by sitting under a streamer or hooded dryer, or just throwing on a plastic baggie and a Hair Therapy wrap.  A detangling conditioner for me would be one like Suave or Aussie...cheap, good slip for detangling with my shower comb, and not too many crazy ingredients.  Personally I'm not too fond of leaving conditioner in my hair, but I've seen some great results on many other Naturals.  In addition, sometimes your hair may need a bit more TLC, and in this case you may use a traditional/detangling conditioner, then follow up with a deep conditioning treatment. 

STYLE - This is where you can cultivate your own original style.  Whether you rock twists and twist outs like myself, or venture down a more creative path by rocking braided updo's or add accessories like scarves or tams.  The products that you can use in the styling process depends on the style in which you want to achieve.  The all important thing to remember is to properly moisturize and seal the hair, no matter what style it is you are aiming to achieve.  The sealing process involves water based product, oil based product and/or a cream based product, and while the products you choose to use are purely up to you, the sequence is critical in properly sealing the moisture in. A water based product is first...and yes, you can use plain old water as that is the ultimate moisturizer.  You can also use a product with a high water content, like a lighter leave-in, following your washing routine.  Next is the oil based product.  This is the step that actually seals the moisture in, since the oil molecules are heavier the water can't escape and therefore keep the moisture concentrated within the hair strand.  A cream based product is used to round out the process, adding another layer of protection for your hair.  Sometimes I bypass the cream based product, depending on the products that I'm using and the style I'm going for.  I usually always add a cream based product overnight, especially if my hair is in twists, adding yet another layer of moisturizing goodness.  The goal is to keep moisture in your hair, and this should help prevent split ends and breakage.  My sealing product trio may look something like this: Karen's Body Beautiful Sweet Ambrosia (water based) Butter Love (oil based) Creamylicious (cream based).  If you include her Jojoba oil, she has a perfect combination to keep your hair soft, moisturized, and full of sheen and body.



Karen's Body Beautiful
I know it seems like a whole lot of information, but if you stick with the basic principles you should be just fine!  Feel free to customize, add in, leave out...make it your own regimen.  Don't be afraid to try different products, there's really no right or wrong when it comes to learning your hair.  And if you listen it will guide you in the right direction.

What's in your healthy hair regimen?

Lisa Michelle

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